Minari, also known as water celery, has a fragrant aroma reminiscent of spring. When you blanch its hollow stalks, much like morning glory, they become crispy and fresh when chewed. According to food scientist Choi Nak-eon, the clean and refreshing scent of minari resembles the phytoncides found in nature. It's the same refreshing scent that cleanses your mind when you breathe in the forest. While many individuals, myself included, enjoy the robust flavor of minari, others do not share the same preference. It is worth noting that our sense of smell is largely influenced by genetics. Bob Holmes, an evolutionary biology PhD and author, has stated that humans possess approximately 400 odor receptors, of which 30 percent vary from person to person. This variation in odor receptors explains why some individuals may perceive the fragrant aroma of spring when tasting minari, while others may detect the scent of gasoline. Similarly, the same genetic variation in odor receptors accounts for why some individuals enjoy the grassy aroma of cilantro, while others find it unpleasant due to its perceived soap-like or bug-like scent. Rather, the scent of minari serves as a means of survival for the plant in harsh environments. As a result, minari grown in challenging conditions, such as in the mountains or fields, tend to have a more pronounced fragrance than those grown in more comfortable settings.

“Minari can grow everywhere.” This is a line from the movie “Mirari,” which made headlines two years ago when Youn Yuh-jung won the Academy Award for best supporting actress. Even if you have not watched the movie, this line remains striking. The story follows a Korean family's struggles as they try to settle in a foreign country, much like a minari plant attempting to take root in barren soil. While minari may seem like a plant with a robust life force that can thrive anywhere, it actually endures by grappling with its environment and producing fragrant substances to ward off threats.

To the American eye, minari featured in the movie may be an unfamiliar food. It is not easily recognized by them. However, they are familiar with other foods like carrots, celery, dill, cumin, and fennel, which are all members of the minary family. Humans have nationalities, but plants have no boundaries. Even if local food cultures have different definitions of what is and is not edible, food is universally available to humans. No wonder we have more in common than differences.

The portrayal of an immigrant family's life in the movie "Minari" resonates with audiences due to its universal themes. Just like the minari plant, we all face challenges and difficulties in our lives. We can only aspire that the life we build emits a fresh and invigorating fragrance, much like the scent of minari in spring, both for ourselves and for others.

Jeong Jae-hoon is a food writer and pharmacist. He covers a variety of subjects, including trends in food, wellness and medications. This column was originally published in Korean in Joongang Ilbo on April 27, 2023. – Ed.