Is tanghulu really the problem? That's the question I ask myself every time I see articles about people worrying about their sugar intake due to tanghulu. Tanghulu is a Chinese dessert crafted from long skewers of fruits, including grapes, tangerines, and strawberries, coated in sugar syrup. A typical skewer of tanghulu contains 10 to 25 grams of sugar. This is roughly equivalent to the sugar content found in Dalgona, a sweet treat enjoyed by Korean adults in their 40s and 50s during their childhood. Before we lament the fact that today's teenagers and 20-somethings are going wild for tanghulu, it's worth taking a trip down memory lane to reflect on what it was like to be a teenager.

Furthermore, it's important to note that the sugar content in tanghulu includes the natural sugars present in the fruit. For instance, a strawberry tanghulu contains 9.9 grams of sugar, while a Shine Muscat tanghulu has 21.1 grams, and a black sapphire grape tanghulu boasts 24.7 grams. Comparatively, these amounts are two to three times the sugar content of strawberries. The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends limiting daily sugar intake to 50 grams or less, but this guideline does not encompass the natural sugars found in fruits and vegetables. So, the quantity of added sugar you consume from tanghulu might not be as significant as it initially appears.

The assertion that the tanghulu trend is causing a surge in young diabetics may be somewhat exaggerated. In June of this year, the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety conducted an analysis of the 2021 National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey, revealing that South Koreans, on average, consumed approximately 34.6 grams of sugars daily, a figure that falls within the WHO's recommended limits. Notably, this amount represented a 6 percent decrease from 2019. Among children and adolescents, about 40 percent of them exceeded the recommended sugar limit.

However, the primary issue seemed to be more about beverages rather than tanghulu itself.

When looking at specific sources of sugar consumption, children between the ages of one to five consumed the most sugar from fruit and vegetable drinks, while those between the ages of six to 49 consumed the most sugar from soda. It's worth noting that a typical 250ml can of cola contains 28 grams of sugar. Interestingly, fruit juice contains a comparable amount of sugar. Consequently, when parents opt to provide their kids with fruit juice, believing it to be a healthier alternative to soda, they may unwittingly be introducing unnecessary sugar into their children's diets.

Eliminating tanghulu from your diet is not the sole solution for reducing sugar intake. In a study conducted last year, the Korea Consumer Agency examined the nutritional composition of beverages offered by 29 coffee and beverage chains. The findings revealed that the average cup of smoothie or ade contained a staggering 65 grams of sugar, while the typical sweet coffee drink contained approximately 37 grams of sugar.

Nonetheless, the increasing concern about tanghulu can be linked to our discomfort with unfamiliar foods. The notion -- that our own cuisine is healthy and safe while regarding the foods of other cultures with skepticism -- is a deeply rooted aspect of any society's history. Although more individuals are now embracing culinary diversity and experimenting with new dishes, there are still those who approach exotic foods with caution. The question remains: will tanghulu be a passing trend or evolve into a Koreanized adaptation of Chinese cuisine, akin to jjajangmyeon? The answer remains uncertain. Only time will reveal the true impact of tanghulu on our health. Let's refrain from rushing to judgment too early.

Jeong Jae-hoon is a food writer and pharmacist. He covers a variety of subjects, including trends in food, wellness and medications. This column was originally published in Korean in Joongang Ilbo on Oct. 26, 2023. – Ed.