Kolmar Korea said it has developed PTPD-12, an anti-aging peptide designed with artificial intelligence (AI) to target sensitive skin. The development was achieved in partnership with biotech research firm Incospharm, which specializes in cosmetic and pharmaceutical raw material development.
PTPD-12 is a small protein fragment that activates autophagy, a cellular process that clears out damaged proteins and waste materials to promote cellular rejuvenation. While autophagy is widely recognized as a critical mechanism in slowing skin aging, PTPD-12 goes a step further by also strengthening the skin barrier and reducing inflammation, making it especially suitable for sensitive skin types.
Traditionally, peptide discovery and testing have relied on manual design and time-consuming laboratory evaluation, often taking over a year.
However, by leveraging AI algorithms, Kolmar Korea’s research team rapidly screened tens of thousands of peptides to identify a pool of 10 candidates, ultimately selecting PTPD-12 based on its strong efficacy. This process reduced development time to just three months.
Unlike existing peptides that simply promote autophagy, PTPD-12 was engineered to restore the skin's innate defenses without relying on conventional active ingredients such as vitamin C or retinol, which can cause irritation for those with sensitive skin.
In a clinical study involving 22 adult women with sensitive skin, participants applied a formulation containing 100 ppm of PTPD-12 over four weeks. Results showed a 9.7 percent reduction in transepidermal water loss and a 4.2 percent improvement in erythema index, indicating improved skin barrier function and reduced inflammation.
The study’s findings were published Cosmetics.
“Anti-aging ingredients like vitamin C and retinol can be too harsh for those with sensitive skin,” a Kolmar Korea official said. “PTPD-12 offers an effective alternative that enhances skin resilience without irritation.”
The company plans to develop and launch anti-aging skincare products suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive, he added.